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Turf Grass - How to Plant
Once the right turf grass for your landscape
is selected, soil preparation, proper and timely installation,
and proper watering techniques are key to establishing
a healthy lawn. (Turf grass cannot be installed on hard,
dry, weed-infested ground and look like a golf course.
Golf courses typically have large maintenance crews
and even larger budgets!)
Soil Preparation
First, have a soil test taken to determine
any nutritional deficiencies that may exist in your
yard. Follow the recommendations of the analysis by
adding the suggested amendments. Any existing grass,
weeds and debris should be completely removed from the
planting area. Till the soil to a depth of at least
4 to 6 inches, adding organic matter such as compost
or rotted manure as needed. The deeper you are able
to cultivate the soil, the more successful your turf
grass will be. Rake the area until it is smooth and
even. (This is an important step because sod will mimic
the natural grade and texture of the soil.) Because
sod must be planted immediately, be prepared by taking
these steps prior to delivery.
Installation
of Sod
Most turf grasses are available year-round,
but should not necessarily be planted year-round for
the best results. Plant Centipede, Bermuda and Zoysia
sod in the spring or summer and Fescue sod in the fall
or winter.
Inspect your sod upon delivery. Turf should
appear green (unless laying during the dormant months)
and in good planting condition. (Do not judge the turf
by its top layers; look a couple of layers down.) Again,
turf grass sod should be installed as soon as possible
on the day of delivery. Turf should not be left on pallet
beyond this date.
Beginning at the top of the lawn, lay
each piece of sod lengthwise. Press the adjoining pieces
together snugly to prevent ruts from developing. Stagger
your sod pieces; the end result should look like a brick
wall. Use sod staples to secure the pieces if you are
planting on a steep grade.
Installation
of a Seeded Lawn
Plant Fescue seed in September or October
and Centipede, Bermuda and Zoysia in June or July for
the best results.
Before purchasing your seed, use our Seeding
Rate chart below to determine just how much seed you
will need. Smaller seeds may need to be mixed with a
certain amount of sand before sowing. The seed (or seed
mixture) can be distributed with a spreader or by hand.
If you choose to use a spreader, distribute one-half
of the seed over the cultivated area, then distribute
the remaining half crosswise over the area to insure
adequate coverage. Rake gently over the entire area
to cover the seeds with a light layer of soil and top
with a layer of wheat straw. Finally, water the entire
area, but not so much that the seed begins to wash away.
| Bermuda Grass |
1 to 2 Pounds |
| Centipede Grass |
1/2 to 1 Pound |
| Tall Fescue |
8 to 10 Pounds for New Lawns
5 Pounds for Overseeding Existing Lawns |
| Weeping Lovegrass |
6 to 10 Pounds Per
Acre |
| Annual Rye Grass |
5 to 10 Pounds |
| Perennial Rye Grass |
5 to 10 Pounds |
| Zoysia Grass |
1 to 2 Pounds |
| *with
the exception of Weeping Lovegrass |
Watering Your
Sod
Do not wait
until all of the sod is laid before beginning to water.
Sod dries out quickly, so water the laid sod periodically
as you plant. After planting, keep the soil very moist
by watering at least once a day for at least 45 minutes
per sprinkler area. The soil should be moist to a depth
of at least 2 to 3 inches. Continue this practice for
at least 2 weeks or until your turf is firmly rooted.
Then water every other day for two weeks. Once established,
most turf grasses can survive on 1 to 2 inches of water
per week. However, for a lush, healthy lawn, more water
will be required. If your turf is allowed to dry out,
permanent damage will have been done; you may lose the
majority (if not all) of the new turf.
Watering Your
Seeded Lawn
If you seeded your lawn, follow the same
general guidelines as with sod, as needed.
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